Another year nearly ended!

Every where in town is looking very festive, and we are looking forward to Christmas, but also wondering what the new cruising season will hold in store for us!

December was a very busy and socialable month for us in Briare. We began by putting up our Christmas decorations on 6th December to herald the arrival of Saint Nicolaus at the Port de Plaisance.  He was preceeded by Zwarte Piet (Black Peter), a Dutch tradition introduced by our new Dutch port Capitain, Dorothe Maas.  This was timed to co-incide with day-long fun raising events being held at the adjacent Cultural Centre.

Arrival of Saint Nicolaus with Zwarte Piet

That evening we dined out on local fare:

Too much food for us, but Tashi benefitted!

For the rest of the month there were dinner parties, and drinks parties to attend, and new faces to meet.  Time was filled making and baking seasonal things, ginger bread men, mince pies, and finishing many projects for simple gifts to present to friends and family.  The trouble was that as fast as I baked mince pies they got eaten so I had to set to and bake some more!

The second batch!!!

The time just flew by.

We cheered up our view through the dismal month of  December by adding our own colours through our windows:

Baubles and candles.

Beautiful blue hyacinths!

There was even time to go walking to find fallen fruit and make jam, and pick mistletoe:

VERY sweet jam from unidentified fruit!

A quick kiss under the mistletoe!

and for visitors to stay a while and walk:

Lovely sunny day for a walk by the Loire

 We managed a traditional Christmas dinner even with our limited on-board facilities.

What no crackers?

October 2014

After visitors came to join us for a meal out in Le Chapelle Montilinard Tashi was left with a new toy!

November 2014

This month saw us attending a happy family party to celebrate the Golden Wedding anniversary of Geoff and Jill at the Haven Hotel, Sandbanks.

The Cake Cutting!

We managed our own early Christmas family gathering, which due to "The Dreaded Lurgy" didnt turn out quite as expected. However we did all get together for lunch.

The Happy Gang!

Tashi and I found some interesting things growing when walking around Briare!

     These strawberries looked pretty but had no flavour!            





 

These 'funghi' looked downright evil!

Sounds much better than "Meals on Wheels"!

Retracing our steps summer 2014

After we left Moret/St. Mammes we retraced our journey of two years previously and cruised up the Seine, turning off onto the river Yonne, at the junction with the town of Montereau-fault-Yonne.   This city profited from great prosperity in the 13^th century with medieval trade-fairs.  Having a fortified castle and ramparts Montereau was a popular city in the medieval period.  But the 100 Years Wars (1337-1453) – yes I know it doesn’t add up to 100 years, but this is what the guide books says, led to terrible destruction and later centuries brought much political and religious disturbance.  Also the Religious Ware (1562-1598) and La Fronde (1648-1653) were a great hindrance to the development of the town and its region during these centuries.

In 1814, on 14^th February one of the last battles won by Napoleon 1^st took place in Montereau during the “Campagne de France”. And a statue of the Emperor on horseback overlooks the confluence as one enters the Yonne.  Later in history, the 19^th century industrial boom in Montereau saw the exploitation of local materials and the arrival of large tanneries, pottery, the tile industry, brickworks and about all earthenware factories which employed as many as 900 workers under Napoleon III. On the 14^th and 15^th June 1940 the city suffered from terrible bombing which destroyed the city centre and the bridges.

Our next stop was at Pont-sur-Yonne where, on Sundays, they have one the best street markets we have yet seen. This year they also had a Grande Jumble Sale, with stalls displaying the weird and wonderful – not that we were tempted by them!

In June we pulled into the city of Sens.  We always remember where we are for the month of our birthdays as we treat ourselves and find somewhere that looks interesting to go and eat out.  We stayed here a few days to explore the city, visiting the cathedral and its museum, which houses many ecclesiastical treasures.  The museum being formerly the Archbishop’s Palace, is a very grand building suitable for the exquisite painting, tapestries and artefacts it houses.  One of the most notable are garments which belonged to Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury and Chancellor to Henri II of England.  Under threat from his king, he took refuge in Sens.  One of the most stunning garments was a great velvet and gold cloak decorated with fleurs-de-lis, and trimmed with ermine.

We also managed, on another very hot day – 34C -  to walk down to the tropical gardens, where we wandered under the shade of the trees, and cooled down before we left with an ice-cream.  The City Tour is worth walking around to view the many and interesting buildings, and again we braved the heat of the day.

 Sens, Hotel de Ville

Interesting staircase of Jean Cousins, architect                         

In the event we didn’t celebrate my birthday with dinner out in Sens as we were entertained all afternoon long,  by a dance class being held on the quay adjacent to our boat. We thought it was a Latin American dance, but were told it was Kisomb, African.  It involved some extremely sinuous and sexy movements!  So we sat on our deck sipping champagne and enjoyed the show!

 

A very intimate dance!

After an exhausting week of site seeing we decided to move on to the quieter town of  Villeneuve-sur-Yonne. The town was founded by King Louis VII in 1163.  There were 2Km long defensive walls, broad moat and towered walls opened by five monumental gates, two of which survive to this day. One can stroll the now tree lined moat from one town Gate of Sens to the other Gate of Joigny.    Many elegant houses remain, built for the successful merchants of the wine and leather traders.   The town subsequently suffered badly when the vineyards were destroyed by the Phylloxera virus. 

Joigny Porte and Laverie

 And so on to Villeneuve-sur-Yonne

This was the view from our boat early one morning.  We are so lucky, and feel very privileged to have such fantastic, ever changing scenery to greet us each day.

It was here in Villeneuve, on the hottest day we had experience to date – 42.1C -  that we celebrated my birthday, not by dining in the restaurant on the quay side, created by the actress, Leslie Caron, but instead we went to an evening ‘Soiree’ in a  small family run bistro.  This turned out to be a slightly different evening that we had anticipated, but hilarious nevertheless. The Soiree was in fact a Karaoke run by an MC, who interspersed film music with questions about the music played.  Well, even if we had understood what he had asked, we are so out of date with the entertainment world that we wouldn’t have known the answers anyway.  But the other diners appreciated our presence apparently, as they cheered loudly when we attempted one answer. And after dinner, taking our leave before any of the others, they again cheered us and clapped as we left, toasting us with a ‘Vive l’Anglais’.  All very bizarre, but fun and a memorable evening.  So glad we didn’t settle for a conventional meal!

This time we managed to get a mooring in Joigny (prounounced to rhyme with Swannie!), and so we went off exploring. The town grew around the 10th century castle, attributed to Raomard-le-Vieux, count of Sens. A chapel was added, then a monastic institution and further fortifications.  The tourist guide boasts 29 points of interest, including three churches which were all open to wander around.  Joigny is built on an extremely steep hillside, fascinating but tiring on a hot summers day.  So we retreated to the boat to sample some of the local produce!

One of the narrow streets of Joigny!

 The hillsides around the town are covered with vines, producing the grey Cote-Saint-Jacques Burgundy wine, white, red and Cremant Burgundy wines, all of of course have to be sampled.  Other local specialities include Pave Ragobert pastry, Dagmar sweetnesses, and Pain d'Epices bread. By the quay side there is an attractive market hall with green painted metallic structure, over red and white patterned brickwork. Built in 1887, classified as a Baltard-type building and typical of this region.  

Joigny from our back deck.

After the heady treats of the three previous towns we retreated up a small diversion to little hamlet of Cezy, with its population of 1,100.  We had stopped here two years before and sampled its restaurant, tabac, small grocer and boulangerie.  The mooring is just long enough for our 20M barge, and the village is accessed across a little bridge over an island, and through woodlands to the village streets.  This year however much excitement was created by many gendarme being present, and a helicopter landing in the nearby sports field. We never got to hear what was the cause of all this activity.

Our next stop was Laroche St. Cydroine, as short pontoon providing free electricity and water. From here we could, and did, cycle into Migennes for the extensive market. I also managed a visit to Simon Evans at this boat yard, to say "Hello", receiving a welcome reception, despite interrupting their morning coffee break!

We stopped this year at the wood side mooring of La Graviere, just above the lock. From here we witnessed Simon Evans rescuing a boat with engine failure, by towing it away with his tug!  Lucky for them they were so close to the boat yard.  While they waited for Simon to arrive however, and so that they didn't hinder anyone's progress, they had to rise and fall in the lock with each passing boat.

We managed to get a good mooring at Gurgy in the shade, and even good TV reception for Ni to watch the British Grand Prix!  It felt quite emotional arriving at Gurgy, the place where Joli Coeur sank two years ago.

By this time we were convinced that our batteries needed replacing before our winter stop. So we pulled in to Auxerre to organise this.  We were joined here on 13th July by friends, Lissie, John and their cat Patrice, to celebrate Bastille Day as the town were putting on  their firework display that evening.

From here, and on one of the hottest days of the summer, we hired a car to visit Australian friends in St. Jean de Losne. At least we had air conditioning in the car.  We did think of sleeping in the car that night just to keep cool!  Sunday 20th July was the weekend of music all around the city of Auxerre, and various bars hosted different groups every night.  So we enjoyed the free after dinner concerts from our upper deck.

With our new batteries installed, and much appreciated help from Jean Phillipe, we moved down to the mooring by the park to await friends arrival for the weekend.

Auxerre, a quiet mooring by the park!

Towards the end of the month, we were joined by family members who cruised with us from Auxerre to Clamecy.  One ran between locks on some days, helping the eclusiers with gates and us with ropes. The other member showed off his new found skills by 'pancaking' ropes after leaving the locks.

The runner and Tashi cool off in the shade!

Looking cool with pancaked ropes!

Our visitors even managed to include a mornings rock climbing at Merry-sur-Yonne:

The explanation tells how the cliffs have been dated to be 150 million years old with much of  this are of France being underwater then.

It also tells of traces of coral being found in the limestone cliffs.

After all this exertion a well earned trip around the wine caves at Bailly was rewarded with tastings and purchases from the cave.

We arrived in Clamecy with a day to spare before they had to leave, so we took the car up to the hill fort town of Vezelay. This is said to be the height of Christendom, the gathering place of pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land, and a compulsory stop-over on the Saint-Jacques de Compostelle Road.  In fact one did feel a bit like a pilgrim, joining the flow of visitors up the steep hill, through the narrow street to the church at the top.

The Abbaye Saint-Marie-Madeleine de Vezelay was a Benedictine and Cluniac monastery.  Relics, said to be of Mary Magdalene, can be seen inside the Basilica.  The abbey church has very complicated imagery in sculpted capitals and portals, a renouned outstanding masterpiece of Burgundian Romanesque art and architecture. Sacked by the Huguenots in 1569, the building suffered neglect in the 17th and 18th centuries, and some further damage during the period of the French Revolution.

Both the church and hill were added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1979, and subsequently much sympathetic restoration has taken place.

After our visitors had left we were treated to a uniquely French spectacle in Clamecy, of the Descente Bidon, Les Crapauds de Basseville!  Basically this consisted of home made floats, carnival style, parading before the crowds gathered on the banks and bridges.  The particpants got pretty wet, getting water from all directions, sightseers on the banks and bridges had buckets which they lowered into the canal and doused them liberally.  Then a thunder storm arrived when the actual race began, and as they all had to pass through the lock they were 'sitting targets'!

The Parade!

After leaving Clamecy all the next part of the Canal du Nivernais was new to us, and we enjoyed the many delightful stopping places, too many to pick a favourite.  Although this canal is advertised as having free WiFi we found that at many places there was no signal for that nor phones or TV.  Luckily we had been warned about the scarcity of food shops after leaving Clamecy so we stocked up with long lasting food stuffs. Ni said I looked as I was preparing to go up the Amazon, so it became referred to as our 'Amazon supplies', and jolly grateful for them too we were at times.  

Our journey through the tunnels to reach the summit at Etang du Baye was unnerving.  The tunnels themselves were OK, but the bits in between had nasty sharp sided rocks narrowing our passage through.  

New effective spotlight!

Having experienced difficulties with previous unlit tunnels, Ni fitted a new spot light during the winter ready for just such an occasion.   Note the ladder/gang plank on the left hand side of the cabin roof.  This subsequently disappeared - where to, or who took it and why, we have no idea, but most annoying. Luckily we have another one, as we have needed it several times since Baye.

Other family members joined us at Baye, and it was a good job I had already emailed co-ordinates of our situation, as no further messages could be sent from here, and its a rather out of the way place. Their stay was brief but busy. One afternoon was spent canoeing

Look, no hands!

We dined at the local Chambre d'Hote on the Saturday evening. This was an usual meal in that we all sat around a table like a family, with Madame joining us in between serving the meal. We were a mixture of nationalities, Dutch, Italian, French and English, so the conversation was a bit stilted.

A day out to Guedelon was squeezed in as well, with the cart horses being the favourite!

Chateau of Guedelon

The fortified chateau is being reconstructed in the style of 12th century, using the same materials and techniques as the original. It is planned to be completed by the year 2025. It would be interesting to return then and how its progressed!

AUGUST, summer 2014

Clamecy Sunday 10th August, a very French Affaire!

The 31st event, Descente Bidon, les Crapauds de Basseville leaving Pont de Bethleem 11am.
From Auxerre to Clamecy

AUXERRE, summer 2014

7 July.  Now we're back in Auxerre for a couple of weeks, where there's a fabulous selection of craft shops I want to rush out and buy lots of things to make, but dont know where to begin! I wish I could understand French knitting patterns as they have the most weird and wonderful types of wool, or should I say spun material. It seems a bit understated to call some of it just plain wool, more like spun spiders webs of threads. Aaah!

Being the summer season its very busy here with boats constantly coming and going. Last night we saw the funniest thing. A man from the hire boat in front of us got off his boat and walked across the drive to the Capitainerie where they are public showers (and washing machine). Nothing odd about that you might think - except he wore nothing but his underpants and flip-flops, oh, he did have a towel in his hand!!!!! He was subsequently followed at intervals by others members of his party, in various states of dress/undress! I dont know what on earth Mike (marine manager) thought of that, as its quite a smart Capitainerie with a sales office for very expensive Dutch Linssen boats! It might be alright for camp sites, but not the done thing at all in a marina dont you know!

We have big celebrations here on Sunday night for Bastille Day, and friends coming to join us for the party. The firework display is to be held on 13th. The marina has to be cleared of all boats in front of us, so that they dont get any fallout of fireworks on their boats, so we will be rafted up 5 abreast during the display.

No more room at the quay side! Auxerre 13 July 2014

Mike tells us the fun really starts at midnight when owners of the moved boats rush back to gain the best quayside places. They dont wait until daylight, nor even sometimes the end of the display. So, as I expect some of them will have consumed quite a bit of alcohol, it should be interesting to see them trying to manoeuvre around one another and past the two large bridge supports! Its quite a lot of work to ensure everyones safety, and the local council workers have been busy these past few days erecting fences all alongside the river on both sides. But I expect there will still be some who go into the water, and diving from the bridge, deliberately or not.


9th July. Having rushed off to the supermarket to stock up, I espied green tomatoes and foolishly suggested that I make some tomato chutney, one thing we cant buy here, and one of Ni's favourites, so if we want it, we have to make it.  So I started, and six hours later this was the result.  I hope he appreciates this labour of love!

What a lot of work- 6 hours - for 7Lbs of chutney!

 I'm not sure how it will taste as the 'green' tomatoes weren't like those in the UK, merely unripe ones, but these were quite ripe, sweet ones. Oh well we work with what we have. At least I still had some malt vinegar left as the only type they had in the supermarche was "Vinaigre d'alcool colore', not quite sure about the alcool bit, but its very pale compared to malt vinegar.

7th July Well ,we return to Auxerre again.  I can well understand why people fall in love with the city. It has so much to offer, shops, museums, restuarants, winding medieval streets and so it goes on.

Since we were here in 2012 they have cracked on with the landscaping of the town side of the quay. There are wonderful plants, water fountains, electricity and water points. Lots of mooring in fact, which should encourage even more people to come here.  Its a good focal point for visitors.

Tashi was very bewildered when we first arrived. She thought she recognised the place, but something wasnt quite right. Our  winter neighbours Charlyn, Simon and Daisy the dog weren't here, and our boat wasn't in the right place. But she soon knew where she was in the park and streets, and off she went trotting around the place.

July 1st.  And then on to Gurgy, where there were more motor homes, RVs than boats.   Most places are quite shallow with only a few offering deeper water where one can moor, but it is worth trying to them.  A pretty little village with very welcoming shopkeepers. A peaceful stopover for us.

Calm waters at Gurgy

For such a small village it has much to offer; mini market, bouganlerie, PO, tabac, restaurant and wine bar. The facilities at the quay are being updated, but currently only offer two electricity points at €5 for 60mins and €5 for 100L of water.

Our next stop on 30th June was at the quay side of La Graviere where we had the sound of song birds from day break to night fall.  This is also a popular spot for local fishermen and others to come and have a barbeque.

And so on to Laroche St. Cydroine, 25 June.   Again we were lucky and managed to get moored here where there is free mooring with water and an electricity supply.  So I took the opportunity to cycle into Migennes for their Thursday market.  The place was buzzing, and it felt good to be back two years later than our first visit.

JOIGNY - 23 June.   We actually managed to get a mooring here this time, so we had the opportunity to explore the town and see all its wonderful old buildings.

Mooring at Joigny

Joigny, medieval streets

Ni could just about get through some of the narrow streets of Joigny!

Beautiful stained glass window of St. Andre's church.

'My garden' this year.

May 2014

We got out the bikes and the dog carriage and went up to Moret-sur-Loing. It was market day (Friday) so the town had an air of buzz.

The main highlights not to be missed are the gates at either end of the town, Gate of Bourgogne, Gate of Samois; the carpentry adorned house on the market square, Don jon, the Church of Notre-Dame; the Francois 1st facade - depicating the Labours of Hercules***; Renaissance houses, and Maison des Religieuses.  We spent the day exploring these, then hurried back before the threatening thunder soaked us, but thankfully it never arrived.

***These details were difficult to discern but are said to be: 

1.Slay the Nemean Lion
2.Slay the nine-headed Lernaean Hydra
3.Capture the Golden Hind of Artemis
4.Capture the Erymanthian Boar
5.Clean the Augean stables in a single day
6.Slay the stymphalian Birds
7.Capture the Cretan Bull
8.Steal the Mares of Diomedes
9.Obtain the girdle of Hippolyta,Queen of the Amazons
10.Obtain the cattle of the monster Geryon
11.Steal the apples of the Hesperides (he had the help of Atlas to pick them after Hercules had slain Ladon)
12.Capture and bring back Cerberus 

so now you know!

We've finally arrived at St. Mammes on the river Seine, at the confluence of le Canal du Loing, and its Tashi's 7th birthday!

We were interested in the little L'eglise de Saint-Mammes, and asked if we could see inside. Laurette (the Capitain) arranged for a guide from Centre de Recherche et de Documentation Medievales et Archeologiques (CRDMA), Claud to show us around. A very interesting man, who was pleased that someone was interested and the next day he arrived at our boat with two prints for us. One of Le Croix Blanche, Alfred Sisley, and the other a detailed drawing of the Bateau Berrichon. We will endeavour to have both framed.  A very kind man.

We are moving/cruising, but not very fast, and not very far!  Totalling chilling out!

The weekend in Saint Mammes proved to be very interesting.  First on the Saturday we were entertained by local teams of jousters - Joutes parisiennes. The youngsters aged about 9 years and upwards were being given instructions.  Then the serious business began with the adults.  Lots fell in the river, all totally oblivious to the passing peniches!

April 2014

Our first overnight stop was at Ouzouer-sur Trezee. The centre, up on the hill, has medieval remains, and several old beamed houses.  One oddity is the leaning grain tower.  One wonders how much longer it will remain standing!  Very few stop here as the waterfront doesnt appear to offer much, and the hire boats just want to get from town to town. Only the late ones stop who get caught out by the locks closing times!  But there are missing a little gem. For a population of over 1,000, it has much to offer. There is a recently built large'village hall' with a large covered outside area for a reception, and it is set in a newly planted park which meanders past the moorings. There are grocers, tabac/brasseries and bakers and butchers. In true village tradition the owners of the latter two, left their premises to help aged customers into their houses some yards away!

Grain store, behind the church, Ouzourer

Monday 14th April

We awoke to a glorious sunny day, which was quickly followed by a blanket of mist rolling down from the hill and along the canal.

All our friends have already left Briare, and we are ready to leave tomorrow for our summer cruising.

All spruced up and ready to go!

There's a defintie buzz in the air, not only from the birds and the bees. Flowers, bushes and trees are blooming, boats are being washed and polished, and people are arriving and leaving.

Before we could leave we all had our hair cut, but Tashi looked the cutest!

Tashi before her haircut

Tashi after her haircut

Its nice to see new faces in the port, but of course they dont stay long as they have come to get their boats ready for cruising.  And its sad to see newly made friends leave for destinations scattered around Europe.  We leave with a mixture of feelings and look forward to Gesina returning for her winter layup in Briare.