DECEMBER 2016

27th December, I can't believe where the time has gone. Since November it's been outings, shopping, planning meetings for the Christmas lunch, and now it's all over. First we had the grand switching on of the christmas lights, timed in the port to co-incide with the towns lights at 6pm on 6th December. There was a competition among the boats and the winner was an Australian boat 'Le Kaighoni' with their Santa's Grotto!

Townsfolk are bringing their children to see all the port boats lights, as they are more spectalular than those in town!

After much planning, discussion and cooking The Grand Christmas meal was held for 16 boaters in the dance studio Quai 10.  A 'Fancy Hat' competition was also included in the days entertainment.

Robyn, The Winner!

To add to the amusement, the judges decided that we should treat the event like a Crufts dog show and 'parade' around displaying our hats. Quite appropriate as only one person present doesnt have a dog! More games were played and many prizes, not surprisingly, included dog treats.

Somehow, I managed to knit 8 pairs of socks in between all these activities.

Aided by a light refreshment!

Tashi had to have another opertion for a blocked pore which led to a cyst. After several trips to the vet, and a huge bill for anti-biotics, plus heart pills as it was discovered that she had an enlarged heart, she is now well on the road to recovery.

Feeling poorly.

Trying to decide which toy to play with first!

And so to the last event of the year - New Year's Eve socialising.

NOVEMBER 2016

It seems like there is lots of activities going on here in the port, but which to chose from? That is the problem. I fancy the stretching excersises in the studio, 'Corps Accord' ,  which is alongside our boat on the quay.  That was until I heard the 'disco' evening in full swing, then I decided to stick to walking Tashi.

This is one of the most socialable port we've visited during the winter lay-up. Friday night is 'pub' night, with other events interspersed, a welcome from the officer of the Capitainerie, then the Mairie, drinks and dinners with neighbours.

I joined the AVF for an annual fee which entitles me to some free courses, including one-to-one French lessons, and cinema visits at half price.

The town was full of excitement and anticipation when President Hollande visited to commemorate the commissioning of the Canal du Midi, here in Castelnaudary. There were soldiers and veterans marching through the town on the morning of 19th. After lunch the President, and a large cavalcade of cars and motor bikes, arrived at the hire base of Le Boat in the Grand Bassin.  Then he walked to the Pont Vieux where he could see the port, sheltering the wintering boats, and canal beyond continuing on its way to Toulouse.

23 November
Nearly the end of the month and the temperatures are still mild at 16C yesterday evening.

OCTOBER 2016

Back in Toulouse again.  This time we were kept entertained by the pompiers at their quay side head quarters. They had hired a photographer to come and take photographs, presumably for publicity purposes. First they tried to launch their dingy to demonstrate rescue skills on the canals. Luckily it wasn't an emergency as the trailer release mechanism jammed and it took quite a while before the dingy was in the water.  Then the photographer was raised from the back of a fire tenden which had an extending ladder, other pompiers went onto the passerelle and fixed ladders in place, then the'shoot' began.

There is always something interesting going on in Toulouse. The weekend hosted two trade fairs, one for antiques, which was selling both the weird and the wonderful objects. The other was a ceramics fair where there was a variety of things for sale from the very finest china to huge outdoor displays.

Statue behind the ceramics displays.
 
This being October there was also a fun run in support of Breast Cancer awareness, and we encountered people, of all ages,  dressed in pink, with pink wigs and decorated faces.

A visit to the natural history museum and botanical gardens was an interesting place to go. Though sadly at this time of the year many plants in the gardens were dormant.

Red beans, like I've never seen before.

Unknown plant.

There was also a beautiful red squirrel hopping about, reddish brown with almost a black tail, but when I reached for my camera he disappeared into the tree tops.


Its beginning to feel like winter has arrived now with nights getting darker earlier at 7.30pm and not getting properly light in the mornings until 9.am.  The overnight temperatures also plunge with the lowest being down to 7.5C one morning, but luckily most days are still warm and sunny.  We have had our heating boiler serviced, and filled up with fuel, so all we have to do now is get to our winter port of Castelnaudary.

We had planned to leave Toulouse on 14th October, but Ni hurt his back so our departure was delayed until 16th when we were lucky enough to again get the mooring against a wall at Montgiscard. We decided to stay two nights to help Ni recover, and I got busy with cleaning fluid to get rid of tree sap that had spattered brown spots all over our cream roof tops!!!

Two days later we headed off to Negra, and this time got into a mooring space on the Locaboat pontoon, so had water and electricity. As the weather was good it gave me a chance to catch up with the washing. It was so peaceful here now the tourist season has ended.

and we enjoyed the autumn colours

Sun rise at Negra

Negra autumn trees

As the weather forecast foretold of storms and high winds, we decided to make a dash for Castelnaudary, just stopping for the night at the Lock Laurens.

Sunset at Laurens

Last mooring of the season at Laurens

So finally we arrive at Castelnaudary. We are SO glad to have arrived safely. Other boaters have succumbed to illness, injury, and had problems with their boats, some serious, others minor. So it's a great relief to be here safe and sound, and be welcomed by the lovely Capitaine, Odile!

Gesina's home for the next five months.

Soldiers of the French Foreign Legion on the canal bankside at Castelnaudary.

As with many place along the Canal du Midi, originally called the Royal Canal of Languedoc, Castelnaudary is a town with a savage historical past.  In 1355, during the Hundred Years' War, the town was burnt down by the Black Prince, son of King Edward III (blame the English again). The beginning of the 17th century saw an uprising against the King's rule and in 1632 a fierce battle took place at the foot of the town. The inventor of the canal, Pierre-Paul Riquet, transformed Castelnaudary into an important port thanks to the building of the Grand Bassin, with its 1.75 acres of space allowing mooring for many trading ships. The industry that benefitted from this facility were wood-drying shops, rope-makers, dry docks and carpenters. Drinking troughs were also provided for the cattle. Nowadays the town relies more on tourists, boaters and its famous dish of Cassoulet.

Boschplaat being towed into port by Somewhere.

 Our first Meet and Greet at the pub L'Indus

Sunday afternoon saw a Party in the Park. This was to celebrate the 1st birthday of Bodi (short for Bodicea, a Spanish Water Dog). Yeti, and Tashi, both Tibetan terriers, Haggis, spaniel/poodle cross, and Delilah standard poodle, all attended. Party Dogs:-

Delilah

Bodi

Haggis

Yeti

Tashi, the old Lady!

SEPTEMBER 2016

From Mas d'Argenais we headed to the charming port of Fontet, which is also a park home and has well tended parkland around the port, and all facilities. Unfortunately the lake, which is used from swimming the summer, was closed due to a bacterial infection. But we could use the outdoor shower to cool down. We went with friends to Marmande for a Chinese buffet lunch, than after relaxing in the shade of port side trees, wandered around to the museum of matchsticks models at Fontet. These truly amazing structures have taken years of dedicated work to construct and care for. Their centre piece being the Palace of Versailles for which they dim the room lights, and light the interior of the Palace and play appropriate music, adding a video of fireworks. A charming little museum run by three dedicated men, one who presented me with a heart shaped souvenir made from match sticks, which he made while we watched the video.

Fontet mooring.

Sadly we said 'goodby' to Jenny and Simon, who we've not seen since they, and we, left Holland. Goodness knows when we'll meet up again. Jenny, looking reminiscent of the Mermaid of Copenhagen, came to wave us on our way!

Between the two ports we passed a fabulouse looking house:

and solid looking pigeon loft:

Hooray, made it to Castets-en-Dorthe, the end of the Canal de Garonne. The only further place to go is onto the river towards Bordeaux. We will not travel there as its tidal and salty, not good for our 'Old Lady' .  The port was very fully with just enough space for us. On wandering around the village I spotted a magnificent pigeon loft in the grounds of a chateau. These lofts historically built to encourage pigeons to roost in, as the people had a double use for the birds, eating them and using their dung to fertilise the crops.
The Capitaine here was very helpful issuing us with a colour brochure full of information on local events, markets and waterway hints. He also kindly takes orders for deliveries from the boulangerie, which is much appreciated (but did encourage us to order pain au chocolate, which we wouldn't otherwise have ordered, not good for the waistline!).

Castets-en-Dorthe mooring

Pigeon loft

And so we retrace our journey to Bordeaux, hopefully stopping at places we missed out on our way down.  One such place was the charming little hamlet of Caumont-sur-Garonne.

As this is also an Aire, there were more camper-vans (21) than boats - only 3!

Now we are retracing our steps back to Castelnaudary, and when we got to Villeton we found the moorings completely empty, and the restaurant/pizzeria closed for winter.  As several boats passed by and the temperature was still 37.1C we found this very odd. Some stopped as they wanted food, so they carried on.  Obviously the restaurant owner made enough money from the summer season guests, and has gone off to enjoy the fruits of his labour!

We were held up in Buzet-sur-Baise by the mini-tornedo which hit early in the evening. The sky went dark, then the wind blew, so we battened down the hatches, quite literally and watched the storm rage around us. The fallen trees jammed the canals, and electricity was cut stopping lock operations, so the pompiers were called out to install emergency generators.

Our second visit to Agen allowed us time to go around the Musee des Beaux Arts which was a real treat. The museaum founded in 1876 is housed in four Renaissance carefully combined mansion houses, opening onto inner courtyards. The collection comprises paintings, scultpures, furniture and pottery/china, from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. The miniatures, and collection of scent bottles, and ladies ornaments from Roman times were amazinly intact. Wearliy we wondered back to the boat, just stopping into the Cathedral to rest for a while, but weren't at all prepared for opulence of the interior. Every surface was decorated from floor to ceiling with colours or gilding. A nun stopped by seeing our amazement and offered an explanation for the images. She told us it was originally an undecorated collegiate church. After the banning of following religious practices, the figures were added to help keep the faith. They depitct characters from both the old and new testament, and also include other religions.   So after the Revolution Napoleon decreed that the church be open to the ordinary people, and now it belongs to the townsfolk.

Relaxing after a day out in Agen!

Lamagistere

One of our favourite moorings, empty now, but even when we stopped back in August there were only a few other boats moored.  A wonderful place for us as there is a disused quarry now a lake, with landscaping around the perimeter, and a good walking surface where we can take Tashi for a stroll. The tree give lots of welcome shade in the summer heat. And basics can be had from the shops just a short cycle ride away. What more could we ask for, heavenly!

Our return stop in Moissac was at the quay down on the river Tarn. Comfortably hot at this time of the year, which was just as well, as there no trees to provide afternoon shade.  However it did prove to be more useful a stop then we had envisaged. There were hundereds of little fish 'tiddlers' nibbling away at our hull. You could hear their tap-tap-tapping day and night. They are better than any anti-foul as they cleared the weeds from our hull completely.  So now we are thinking of a way to keep some fish onboard in a tank, and lowering them in a net to gobble up any more weed that grows!

Peaceful river mooring, Moissac

AUGUST 2016

Some weird and wonderful things passed us by as we sat in Moissac!

A dog trailer!

Even the port Capitaine looks amazed. But it's a thought - spares tool store, wardrobe? The mind positively boggles!

Sad to go, having met many friends, and made new ones, but finally we leave Moissac, passing through the swing bridge, which is very low at 1.6M. This catches out many late arrivals at night, as they dont realise it shuts at 7pm. So they have to moor at an old quay out of town.

We had a very gentle cruise on another hot day, stopping at Pommevic for a night or two.

It wasnt a good idea to stop at Valence d'Agen during August as the port was being used as a stage set for their annual historic tableau complete with fireworks and canon fire! But their security took a very relaxed view of passers-by during the day time, and allowed us to moor while we did some shopping, and cyclists to pass through the stage set, even with children sitting at tables and chairs of the set. It was a very elaborate stage set, and obviously grown over the years. Now looking very professional and authentic. The seating on the opposite side of the canal holds seats for about 1500 people. Quite a spectacle.

Valence d'Agen

Our next mooring was the ideal for us, and what we dreamed of. Behind us was a lake with a good walking surface right around the 1Km circumference.   The only boats moored here were flying British red ensigns!

La Magistere

 This was a dog's paradise. We saw one Newfoundland, and the boat Anna had three Bearded collies! Don't fancy grooming those, especially as the Beardies kept swimming in the canal/lake! A lovely quiet mooring with space for motor homes and parking for walkers.

Our guide book tells us that Agen is the head city of the Lot-et-Garonne department, alway important in the Aquitaine region. Previously it marked the boundary between the lands owned by the King of France and King of England. Now it is more famous for its prunes and rugby team. For sale in the local shops are prunes macerated in alcohol, covered in chocolate or filled with a delicious stuffing!

At Agen we preferred the shade of the trees before the entrance to the main port, where it was in the full sun.

Even so the night time temperatures dont drop much and so more sleepless nights are in store for us. But then we can always relax the next day!

Yet another place we hope to explore more fully as we pass back up the canal, as it was just too hot to wander around the town for long.

Our next stop was Serignac-sur Garonne.

What a surprise we were in for in this little village. The church has a twisted spire, the wooden support of which has burnt down several times. The last time the villagers wanted to just have a normal spire rebuilt, but a society was formed to rebuild again with the twist.

Detail showing the spire construction.

To be on the safe side we booked ahead for a mooring at Buzet-sur-Baise. We thought being so famous for its wine since the Middle Ages, the village would be more impressive, but in fact, it is more of a hamlet with just one grocers and two restaurants. Still it was a pleasant mooring and a popular stop over for a tour of the wine co-operative. Here we met family who visited for the week, and we moved down to Damazan, enjoying their night market, which is held every Tuesday during August.

Food stalls encircled the market place.

Street vendors roamed, while a band played for dancing.

And imrpessive first impression.

Tiny streets, and beamed houses.

 Our next stop was at Villeton where the only mooring available to us meant that a French fisherman had to move away. He was not a happy chappy! Our friends, Sally and Charles, were also moored there and joined us for dinner.

Smiles all round!

There was a lake nearby where Ni, Andy and Marina went to cool off and enjoy the water sport for the day.


Our next stop had arriving at Lagruere just in time for lunch at the quayside restaurant.

Unfortunately no shade, and hottest at 42.5C!!!

Behind the quay there was a charming park waiting to be explored entitled "The Journey of Senses". A very gentle, quiet little place.

Senses to be awakened, touch, scent, listen ......

The Philosophers wall.

Detail.

One side The Park had a walk through the trees, with a fresh water stream, and on the other homes for insects, ponds for aquatic creatures, herb gardens, vegetables, flowers, an observatory hide to watch the wildlife, and illusory images just before you found yourself back into the 'real' world of the tree plantation. This  beautiful project was created and maintained by the local village school. I couldnt resist 'helping' by going back to our boat for scissors and string, to tie up the bent tomato stalks! Hope they dont mind.

Le Mas-d'Argenais was the next port of call with its Romanesque church of St. Vincent in the middle of the town, which houses a crucifixion painting by Rembrandt.

Recently cleaned pristine outer walls of the church.

Old market place.

Gateway to fortified town, not quite sure what the giant sized axe is for, unless its felling giants!

Mas d'Argenais mooring

 We had thought to stop at Meilhan for the next night, but on being told a pop concert was being held at the port decided to green bank a bit further on.