SEPTEMBER 2015

The Rhone river valley is truly spectacular. I hadn't given it much thought before arriving here, and so was pleasantly surprised by the magnificent views, the huge hills, mountains, river side chateaux, lively towns and pretty little welcoming villages.

One such village was la Roches de Glun where we lucky enough to find a mooring on a newly placed pontoon. Bizarrely we were plagued by a young chap, who spoke only Spanish, but claimed his father was German and he seemed to be rowing a 12' fibreglass boat up the Rhone to Germany! He wanted us to sell him our outboard engine. But we refused as it is our emergency aid, and has been used several times over the years, usually to get us ashore when the only mooring available to us was offshore.  His boat had no proper windows, they were merely covered with sheets of polythene, and the whole thing looked a bit fragile. His dog accompanying him, he sat legs dangling over the pointed front of his boat, as he went off up the Rhone, paddling alternately one side then the other, using only oar. Nigel felt very guilty when he saw how precarious the chap looked! But he did make quick progress along the far shore and soon disappeared from sight.

La Roches de Glun, with backdrop of the Massive Central

Bourg les Valence lock gave us a fright when we looked back at how big the sill was once the water had emptied.

From here we moved down to the marina at Valence. We were entertained here by the some ferocious cobs (male) swans who were intent on herding the pens (females) and cynets into goodness knows where. They just wouldnt leave them alone, apart from when diving for food ...

No they're not marker buoys, Yes - they are swans!!!

Then there was the alpaca being taken for a walk .......

and finally came the weed cutter.

And all this came included in the port fees, along with the electricity and water! But beware those who follow on - the water supply at the furthest end from the original supply is literally just a trickle by the time it reaches the end pontoons. So we only managed to get half filled by the time we left.  So having caught up with the backlog of laundry and revitalled we set off.

As we emerged from the lock at Beauchastel we saw a boat coming towards us that we thought we recognised.  "It couldn't be, was it, yes it has a white Mini on the back deck,  it is - Vertrouwen!" We waved frantically, but those onboard didn't have a clue who we were, and they were rushing to catch the awaiting lock. Must have thought 'Mad British!' This was the boat we did our skippering course on back in Holland in 2008, and Nigel subsequently skippered for several years down on the Midi, which was where we expected to see her next.

We arrived in Cruas more by chance than planning, though it was our 'Plan B' back up mooring, as 'Plan A' didnt work out. Luckily there was space for us, as the Mistral really was getting lively causing white horses out on the river. We had thought to stay two nights but the Capitain says wait until Lundi, so here we sits and wait until the Mistral blows itself out. Even though it costs more money to stay in a marinas rather than on river side pontoons (if you can find a vacant one) to us its worth the extra money to avoid the strong wind and huge wash from passing hotel boats, which throw us about at night resulting in sleepless nights.  What a wonderful little village this is, it's been occupied since the Gallo-Roman period.  There are three medieval sites on the hills, the remains of the castle (12th & 14th century), many Gothic houses and the old abbey church (11th & 12th centuries). But it still seems so incongruous to have the adjacent cement factory of Larargue here and the ever present nuclear power and hydro electric stations, all along the Rhone. Though I suspect here and many other villages benefit from the largesse of these businesses, as many villages have impressive facilities such as sports grounds, tennis courts, club houses, etc, and very grand Hotel de Ville, the like of which are never seen in small English villages. Here the Hotel de Ville hosts a theatre, cinema, bibleotech, salle de fete (equivalent of village hall), and post office.

Cruas, ancient castle.

For some reason Nigel thought it amusing to photograph me cleaning the boat.  Well, I ask you, what else would a girl do on a hot Sunday afternoon apart from clean the boat?

I have to stay on my knees, if I stand up I might get blown overboard by the strong wind!

A scarey thing happened here yesterday evening at about 8.45pm. It was just getting dark when a sailing yacht came screaming towards the marina. It was coming in at full speed when it suddenly ground to a halt. They had gone aground. Its a very narrow channel into the marina and the Mistral had blown them off course and onto the sand bank. Each time they restarted their engine clouds of black smoke came from their exhaust but they didnt move. Eventually two men went out in a canoe, and the yachtsman threw them their anchor to try and get it onto the pontoon and then winch them ashore. Inevitably the anchor was too heavy and the canoe just went backwards! More people gathered on the pontoon and it was 'mooring by committee syndrome'! Everyone had an opinion, but common sense prevailed and ropes were taken to the pontoon and the yacht hauled in. By this time it was completely dark. Boy, were they relieved!

Cruas, late arrival firmly aground!

Finally the wind died down and we set off again down the Rhone passing through Bollene lock, the deepest in Europe (so we are told) at 23M. Whilst we were taking photos of it, guests on the accompany hotel peniche, Napoleon were admiring our boat and taking photos of us! So glad we hadn't idled our time away in Cruas, but given Gesina a jolly good cleaning from front to back!

Bollene lock 23 M deep.

From here we stopped at St Etienne des Sorts (what does that mean?) then L'Ardoise, where unfortunately there are no shops, and on to Aramon, where there are.

Aramon mooring

A pleasant spot on the Rhone, but does suffer from the wash of passing peniches, and debris in times of flood. The Capitain made us feel very welcome. The town suffers from the ravages of the floods of the river and as recently as 2003 residents drowned in floods, even though flood controls have been put in place. It is difficult on the Rhone floods mean high water, so they lower the water levels, then they open the sluices which allow all the accumulated drift wood - logs, tree trunks etc. - so move on the flood tides. So no movement is safely guaranteed.
An unusual craft arrived alongside us here. It is solar powered and having run out of power came into port to recharge

Captain Sunset's Water Camp

At night they put up tents on the deck.

At one with nature!

The debris from the floods further upstream was a problem which worried us.

Some chunks weighed several tons!

I was very caustious walking into town after seeing this sign! I thought it was a joke, but apparenly not! Beware.

Fascinating town with lots of historic interest. Easy access to Avignon and surrounding areas.
We had been becalmed here for various reasons and were pleased to be able to move on down the Rhone to Beauclaire lock - who didnt record our passing - to St. Gilles, where we stopped on the canal for the night, at one of the small pontoons.

We first stopped at the Derivation de Aigues Mortes, but were worried that the wooden pontoons wouldnt be able to hold us against the passing commercials. So we moved down into the port.

Aigues Mortes - WOW

I cant believe how beautiful it is here. We've gone from rivers, castles/chateaux, to canals and now this! The reflected light is unbelieveable. And the old town within the walls of the castle so typical of a fortress town.
Its a weird concept to get ones head around. Like Ni said we havent come to the Mediterranean, we've taken our home to the Mediterranean. WOW.   Sorry, I said I wouldnt keep saying that  but honestly its stunning!!!

From Aigues Mortes we made the next stop at Carnon in spite of being warned by friends of an unfriendly reception. We managed to find a mooring and stayed two nights. The next stop was Frontignan which being next to the railway line, road bridge and side road, must have been the noisest place we have ever stopped. Here one has to wait for the lifting bridge which only opens at 8.30am and 4.00pm so timing is everything. Despite the noise we stayed two nights, having taken one day to wander down to the 'Plage', sit by the sea, that's the Meditteranean, and have a cooling drink at a bar. A lovely relaxing day.

Watching Bumper Boats (plastic hire boats) jostle for position to get through the lifting bridge proved an entertaining 15 minutes. Luckily when we passed through to pull over in order to go shopping the Capitain had things in better control and allocated mooring spaces.

We had no idea there would be so many flamingoes!

Although we saw a 'Passerelle' marked on our chart above Palavas-les-Flots this one took us by surprise. Its articulated, floating and has an outboard motor to drive it into place!

Swing bridge open

Swing bridge shut

 So on a hot ,sunny, dead flat calm day we set off across the Etang de Thau. Our biggest hazard was the numerous small fishing boats whizzing back and forth around us. The marker buoys were difficult to spot, some none existant, but we stuck to the channel shown in our chart and passed unscathed. Ni was in seventh heaven, feeling like he was back on our yacht in Bournemouth Bay.

And so finally we arrive at THE MIDI!!!

I have to say the first part of the canal was very disappointing. It is very narrow and shallow. The sides are lined with abandoned, wrecked boats and looks like a ships graveyard.

But is soon got better......

Canal du Midi in all its glory!

AUGUST 2015

It seemed strange to be again travelling the Canal de Bourgogne, and we had forgotten about some of the most beautiful scenery, particularly above Dijon where the steep hillsides were covered with forests of mixed trees.

Beautiful hills of Bourgogne

As we had a timetable to follow we didnt want to linger too long, and so we sweltered some days, (the highest temperature reached was 49.7C) having to travel with no shade other than umbrellas, as the bridges were too low and too often for us to make use of the bimini. Tashi was the coolest one of us with her special 'Cool Coat'!!! We had to make do with lots of glasses of iced water, and constantly putting our head under the shower.

It was with much relief that we reached the river Saone and stopped for a few days to recover at St. Jean de Losne.

Quay side mooring at St Jean de Losne

And so after resting and completing all those vital 'last minute jobs' we said a sad farewell to SJdL and set off on our journey of the great rivers.

'Goodbye St Jean de Losne'

And so onto the river Saone. We again stopped overnight at the picturesque town of Seurre, and then on to precarious wooden pontoon at Gergy. Our next stop was at the entrance of the disused lock of Gigny, where delicious aromas of Boeuf Bourgogne or Oeufs en Meurette wafted past from the nearby restaurant but we resisted the temptation!

Our next stop was Tournus where we met up with family, and spent a few days exploring the town.

Tournus, Reflections

Tournus mooring below the Abbaye.

From here we made the short journey up to Pont de Vaux, but will never go there again. The narrow channel up to the marina was chocked with weeds, as was the port itself, causing our water intake to block along with the bow thruster!

Next stop was the Port de Plaisance at Macon. What a contrast. We have never been in such a well organised port. Such a shame they don't offer winter mooring, but only visits or yearly contracts. The city has so many facilities and good walks.

Macon, la Maison de Bois

Macon marina.

The quay was full at Trevoux but a kindly restaurant owner let us moor overnight on the pontoon below his premises. We managed to walk into town despite the scorching sun, and wandered around taking in the breathtaking views from the heights.

Trevoux, view of the Saone from the hill top, and we thought we were big!!!

 What can we say about Lyon apart from 'WOW'. So much to see, so little time - and money. The marina has a large shopping mall at the far end, and river boats to ferry people up to the old town with its many museums and historic buildings. One of the main attractins being the Basilica and taking the funicular railway from the river to the hill top.

Lyon, Basilica

We waited a few days for the weather to cool down, the hottest day being 43.1C! before we moved on to Vienne. We arrived at the weekend just as the town was gearing up for a re-enactment of Knights Templars, but we did take the opportunity to stroll around and see some of the Roman ruins.

Vienne, not quite sure that the modern art sculpture added anything to the remains of the colesium!

 Next stop St Vallier.

 At Tournon we found the water level too low for us in the 'marina', so with agreement from the Tourist Office we moored for the night on the opposite bank at Tain l'Hermitage on the passenger boat pontoon.

Tain l'Hermitage.

We were sitting quietly here having an evening tipple, when a group of people hesitantly began to come down the gangway towards us. 'Oh heck' we thought, 'they think we're a trip boat'.  But no they sent the smallest child to ask if they could come onto the pontoon and have their photographs taken. So, much to their delight, we invited them onboard, and amid much squelling and laughter ours and their photos were taken. It transpired they were now living in France having come from Albania.

Tain l'Hermitage, statue of Charles V and Jeanne de Bourbon outside the Notre Dame.

JULY 2015

We have made it to Tonnerre, having waited a week at St.Florentin for the new fuel tank to be delivered. As it was so hot during that week and we had no shade on our mooring, it was merely a question of killing time being too hot to do anything useful. Even the slightest effort brought tears of sweat running down our faces. One day it reached 48.9C on the boat!!!!! We just spent the week existing and taking Tashi for short walks. Tashi's new Cool Coat has been used a lot. I think she fared the best, as we didnt have access to electricity nor water, so had to make do with just sprinkling ourselves in the shower to cool down, several time a day, instead of the torrent we really wanted to pour over us!

Old fuel tank taking up space on the upper deck.

New fuel tank, still taking up space on the upper deck!

Nevertheless it was a very entertaining week.   But we could have done without being sprayed with dust and dried grass from the car park next to us when the helicopter came to someones rescue, but its nice to know that help is always near to hand.

St. Florentin, emergency services.

On a hot sunday afternoon 15 coaches arrived in the car park, so about 500 teenagers carrying various pieces of sports equipment, poured across the Pont (canal aquaduct over the river) to the sportsground on the opposite bank. We felt quite sorry for them having to compete in the afternoon sun, but in the evening they returned to their coaches still chattering and jumping around like puppies!

Eager young athelets!

This Theatre de Verdure, Leo Ferre, sitting in a public park, is well used by all ages it seems.   First there was a gymnastics competition between tinnies, then a few days later judo was being performed. In a previous visit a pop concert was held there.  We were relieved that wasnt on offer this time round.

Theatre Leo Ferre, wonderful facility.

We actually managed to get a mooring here at Tonnerre with TV reception so that Nigel could watch the British Grand Prix! We will stay a couple of days to clean everything while we have water and power, (if it's not too hot) but need to press on as we're concerned about the water levels in the canal.   It seems there's either too much, or not enough.

Flogny la Chapelle, flood damaged quay.

Levels a bit low on the Canal du Bourgogne!!!

We resisted the temptation of lunch at this quayside cafe!

I finally managed to get a photograph of this elusive little bird - Black Redstart. Its been tormenting me for weeks, being very tame and sometimes actually landing on our boat railings. But as it is so quick, darting about the place I never have the camera to hand at the right time.

Mooring at Tonnerre

We had two sets of surprise visitors in two days, both fellow boaters overwintering in Briare. The first was from Nicky and Tony, (Archangel) who had sent emails but we hadn't picked them up, and the second from Michelle and Gerard (Carmige) who had just arrived from Tanlay. That's the unexpected pleasure of cruising. One never knows who or when we are going to meet up with fellow travellers!

I felt very proud of myself tonight as a group of teenagers were trashing things around the Capitainerie office, so I got the camera out to take a photo of them. They immediately hid. Later one of the boys came to our boat to tell us that the things they were 'trashing' were already broken. I asked about the big wheelie bin they threw to the ground and requested they stand it upright. Which they now have done and departed. Why does no-one else challenge them? Its a bit of a risk as the kids may return in the night untie our ropes and cast us adrift, steal something, or trash us.  We are very vunerable. But someone has to take a stand. Why don't the French boat owners here do something positive.

Today I took Tashi onto the adjacent park and sitting under the shade of a cherry tree, gave her coat a good trim ready for the electric clippers! Now she will really feel the benefit of the Cool Coat.

This time round, we managed to do some sightseeing at Tonnerre.

Fosse Dionne

 

Eglise Saint Pierre

This was followed by a delightful lunch at the Galetterie Les Vieux Volets

Tanlay -

Keeping an eye on the lock!

We arrived at Tanlay only to find the quayside completely full. However just after we had tied up on the opposite bank a hire boat pulled out so we untied and moved over. Only due to the kindness of the crew of Lanson Duchess moving back a few feet did we manage to squeeze into the space.

Tightest fit ever.  Well done skipper!!!

There was plenty of room for us to moor at Ravieres, with electricity and water available but no shade. The situation is getting dire here on the Canal de Bourgogne with so little water in the canal. The repairs to the lake at La Panthier were not completed and so it is empty and not able to provide water for the canal. The water levels are low and restrictions are in place.

When we moved to Ancy le Franc our Dutch friends from Briare, Cor and Mieneke Kolen, were able to visit us on the national holiday of Bastille Day (14th July). We spent a few happy hours together over tea and supper.

Opposite the quay without shade, electricity and water!

Moving swiftly on to Montbard.

Our friends, Sally and Charles, visited and we had lunch together.

We stopped overnight at Venarey les Laumes to gather our strength before heading off towards the staircase of locks. At Venarey there is a  pet goose which lives on the quayside, in its own little wooden crate. With its long neck it can defind itself most adequately against visiting dogs.

Because of the water shortage in the canal we were collected by the eclusier at a set time, as they were co-ordinating boat movements to ensure the most efficient use of water. Unfortuantely this didnt go exactly to plan as someone had left an overflow open too much, and after we left Marigny-le-Cahouet, despite the Guide Fluvial stating that the water level was over 1.40m, we dragged along the bottom of the canal, churning up the mud as we passed.  This was the hardest and longest day struggling through 28 uphill locks! It made the journey to Pont Royal through another 13 uphill locks seems like a stroll in the park. But we did get completely stuck on the bottom in the long pound after lock Charigny 16. We had visions of waiting for a tug to free us, but with much relief eventually managed to wriggle our way free. It was a good job we didnt fill up our onboard water tank even though we had paid for the top up. Our tank was down to a low level 2/10ths of its capacity, and this might have made a huge difference if it had been full.  We like to run it low every now and again to refresh the water.  After this heavy day were even too hot and tired to visit the excellent restaurant at Pont Royal. Just showered - all three of us, and collapsed in a heap.

'The Hospital Ship' with drapes!

How true the expression "Careful what you wish for". After praying for rain, having had none since early May, we had a heavy downpour, with hail stones, for the last hour of our journey to Pouilly en Auxois at the summit of the Canal de Bourgogne. So again we arrived here looking like drowned rats. The previous visit our whole journey along the canal was wet, and I changed my dripping clothes three times during this last section, as once you beging the journey there is nowhere to stop and the eclusiers insist you keep travelling!
Perhaps this is the reason for this 'installation' in the local car park

Yes, it's washing machines and a dryer!!!