October 2017

Having made a quick trip to the Uk to visit a friend, I returned to Capestang to await more visitors, Jackie and Peter. They checked in to an hotel and cruised with us during the day, from Capestang to Angeliers, Le Somail and Ventenac-Minervois.  LeSomail  was one of the staging posts for passenger boats during the 18th century which cruised between Trebes, Castenaudary and Negra. Costing £6, which must have seemed a lot then. Plus the passengers has to disembark and change boats, each time they reached a double or triple lock - a total of 25 times, and carry their own baggage up or down the steep slope to the next boat.
LeSomail also houses Madame Gourgues' antiquarian bookshop, a treat not to be missed. The stock is vast consisting of paperbacks and very rare editions.

Post boat.

 Angeliers had an interesting walk between a narrow street where placards had been placed on the walls explaining about the Wine revolution.  This concerned French wines, already in oversupply, being threatened by Algerian wines and other artificial mixed concoctions. In 1905 Marcelin Albert, manager of a theatrical group, cafe owner and wine grower convinced 400 wine growers to sign a petition in favour of natural Midi wines.  He then founded the Argeliers Committee, a group of wine growers who were to shake the foundations of the government. The intervention of the army shocked the public and the wine growers' revolt spread over the whole region. So tragic with many innocent people killed. 
Albert Marcelin was finally received by the president and the law authorising chaptalization revoked. But the hero of the day, having dealt with the enemy, was rejected by his former friends and ironically ended his days miserably in Algeria.

We took time off the boat to explore by car, and visited the Cathar town of Minerve, which was a spectacular place perched on the top a rock in a deep ravine.

Stunning village of Minerve.

  Next we visited the bastide of Aine with its narrow streets and tall buildings to throw cooling shadows on the inhabitants. Although Bize Minervois was a recommended place to visit, we never found the point of interest. Need to read a guide book more thoroughly!

Jackie and I also took the opportunity one afternoon to cycle from Ventenac Minervois to Paraza, where  there is the chateau Paul Riquet stayed in  while his canal was being built. Between these two villages is the canal bridge of Repudre, one of the few bridges built by Riquet himself, constructed to avoid damage to the canal caused by flooding of the little river Repudre. It was completed in 1676.   Said to be the first canal bridge ever built in France and reputed to be the second builit in the world!

From Ventenac-Minervois is one of my all time favourite stretches of the Canal du Midi, with the mountains of the Pyrenese on one side and Mountains Noir on the other.

'My mountains'

 I just LOVE them. I think it must come from being a 'northener'!

Tashi is also in heaven here in Homps when we walk down to 100 hectare lake Olonzac.  She can paddle on the waters edge quite happily.  Its deserted at this time of the year, with no water sport activities.

Just beyond the bridge is a brocante which has a wonderful array of objects for sale.  I wish I had a larger boat!! (and bigger pocket!)

Apparently there was a general strike while we were moored in Homps, but as we hadnt intended to move it didnt affect us.

We moved on to LaRedorte and were lucky enough to get a mooring right outside the quayside restaurant, treating ourselves to dinner there on Friday evening with our new neighbours also going to Castelnaudary, Frances and John on their boat Antonia.

Keeping an eye on the weather forecast we moved up to Marseillettes, but only stayed one night, swiftly moving on to Trebes. Then we made a dash for Carcassonne, having rung ahead to be sure of a safe mooring place while the high winds go past.

It  has been a most amazing stop with chaotic happenings on the canal.  First of all a workboat/peniche called Neri arrived, and attempted to pass through the small bridge below the lock into the port. His wheelhouse was too high and he got stuck. Couldnt go forward, couldnt go backwards. The 4 hire boats who had followed him were scattered all over the canal. Eventually Neri got free and moored up. He tried pumping water into his hold to lower the boat,but his pump broke! The hire boats passed up through the lock - all except one, which appeared to be out of control. It kept going aground and spun around several times. That also moored up. That night the VNF lowered the water in the pound and Neri edged slowly into the lock.
This afternoon hotel boat, Savannah, moored in front of us. Hotel boat Alegria came down through the lock, but without Savannah moving forward there was no room for them to pass, so Alegria ran aground. Savannah pulled Alegria off the bank, and moved into the lock. Alegria decided not to moor here and continued down the canal. While these manoeuvres were going on more hire boats arrived wanting to pass through the lock and time was pressing on towards closing time at 6pm. All moved smoothly through (apart from one frantic Irishman who only seemed to know one throttle position - yes you've guessed it FULL POWER) and now we can sleep easy until another day!

 

VNF official keeping a close eye on 'their' bridge!

 

Savannah pulling Alegria off the shallow bank edge.

Boats going in all directions!

 Perhaps the threatened general strike on Thursday will restore peace and calmer waters!

Nigel slipped on the wet grassy bank, and dislocated his shoulder, so we stayed a few more days in Carcassonne for him to rest.

Finally we got on our way, and enjoyed the beautiful autumn days cruising, arriving to the welcoming site of the Grand Bassin, with the spire of the Collegiate St-Michel looking down on us as we approached the old 17th century bridge.
 

Grand Bassin, Castelnaudary.

The Grand Bassin is a man-made lake of 1.75 acres, unique along the 150 miles of the Canal du Midi. It was here that Canal was officially opened to navigation on 19 May 1681. The town's Councilors paid 30,000 livres to have the canal passing through the town and creating the Bassin. During the 18th century it was a busy port hosting wood-drying shops, rope makers, boatmen, dry docks, and carpenters. Drinking troughts were also provided for cattle.
 
We awoke on 31st to our first frost of the season, with boat roof tops sparkling as though they had been sprinkled with tiny diamonds. Luckily the clear night skies also bring clear sunny days.

Pont Vieux, Castelnaudary.

It always seems amazing that we, and larger boats, manage to squeeze through this tiny bridge, set at an angle!