April 2018

Now we know it's getting warmer - the first swallows are skimming over the water beside our boat!

This beautiful boquet of flowers arrived for us with Easter greetings.

Easter bouquet.

 Again it was party time, as we helped Martin celebrate his birthday onboard their boat Heliox.

Easter Monday (2nd April) Sally took, Francis, Joh and myself to a Vie de Grenier in the small village of Dalou, which is the other side of Mire Poix. I didnt find the water tumbelers/whisky glasses I was hoping to find, but did buy a pearl necklace for €8, and was somewhat peeved to a new one for sale costing less in Gifi!!!

On our return journey we stopped off at the medieval town of Mire Poix where a Swing Festival was going strong, with a band to entertain the crowds, as well as impromptu concerts around the square, and they got our toes tapping. The town attracts many tourists to its galleried shops around the town square. This time a number of stalls were selling musical instruments, mainly wind instruments. A lot of polishing had gone on previously to create the impressive collection of brass and silver instruments.

You could see your reflection in them!







Thursday 5th was Book Club Swap, and friend Val, took me to Bram.  We donate books, and buy replacements for 0.50€ which goes to the charity of choice for that month.  I took one book, and was very restrained, only buying three to bring back with me. This is my back-up read for when we start cruising and am not able to use my Kindle for various reasons.  Our Dutch hosts provided drinks and nibbles, and we enjoyed the calm atmosphere of their old converted mill house. They are potters themselves, and the area they use for exhibitions has three old mill stones still in place in the middle of the gallery. The stream which provided water to power the paddles has now been diverted, which is good for them, as the entrance to their property is via a ford which crossed this stream, and used to flood regularly, making access difficult.

Sally asked me to knit her a scarf to match her Santa hat, and I finished it just in time to present to her before we left Castel.

A matching scarf and hat!

April 18th. We finally left Castelnaudary after our winter rest. Jim, our Danish neighbour, very kindly offered to help Nigel with the ropes for the upstream locks to the summit at Ocean. This was much appreciated as Ni's shoulder isn't really up to pulling on ropes. Eric was also involved in this manoeuvre as he gave Jim a lift back in his car, later returning with our patched bimini.  Wonderful chaps all.  We actually stopped at Ecluse Mediterranie and who should pull in next to us but Jill and Ian onboard Jazz.  So they decided to stop for the night and we had a catch up evening, which was very pleasant.

Our first mooring of the season.

Jazz leaving, heading north.

Our next stop was at Ecluse Renneville where Toby joined us on 21st April. The day was warm and sunny to greet him, reaching 21C. It was wonderful having a third person to help with the locks, passing through, Negra, Montisgard and into Toulouse.

Back in the historic city of Toulouse on 24th April and into Port Saint Sauveur.

26th April saw us motor gently back upstream towards the dry-dock at the VNF historic yard. We endured two days of pressure washing with sound echoing around the dock. Poor Tashi suffered most of all from the noise. So I walked her away as much as possible.


By Saturday 28th it was all washed and Damien, the boat surveyor, came to give us the once over. He was very thorough taking from 10am until 6.30pm. Much to our relief, he commented that there didn't appear to be any extra metal work, other than the alterations Ni wants done. We await his written report. Now it's sanding and painting.

Toby made a good job of sanding down our French windows, and they are now ready to be revarnished.

Dry-dock, before the water is emptied.

March 2018

When a boating neighbour suggested a trip to Rome, I couldnt resist, so off we went. Despite all Linda's careful planning, checking trains, planes and buses via the internet, not a day went by that ran according to plan!
The first 'hiccup' was a heavy snow storm at Toulouse airport, which meant a delay while our plane was de-iced. Then we arrived in Rome to find a heavy blanket of snow had also caused problems there. Transport was in chaos, that part of Italy not being used to heavy snow. We finally arrived at our accommodation - Camping Roma, which to Linda's disappointment was small and without any facilities at all. We even were required to 'rent' a towel. Luckily we had taken our own!

At least Linda could nudge me if I snored too loudly!

 Each day brought new challenges regarding transport, but the people were SO friendly and helpful, that we always got to our destination - eventually! The only time when we were getting a bit fraught was for our visit to the Villa Borghese as there was restricted viewing and timed entrance. So we took a taxi which it turned out wasn't too expensive at all at €17 to cross the city centre. In my six day visit we managed to see all ten of the top sites: Palatina Hill, Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain (I threw a coin in to ensure a return visit), Villa Borghese, Colleseum, Vittoriano Monument, Saint Angelo Castel, Piazzo Novona and Villa Farnesini, along with my favourite the Vatican, Cistine Chapel and Saint Pietro Basilica.

Cistine Chapel, ceiling detail.

Despite the awful cold and wet weather the city was still very busy with tourists. I guess they were as determined as us to make the most of their visit!

Yes, I did feel as dejected as I look!

So back to the chalet and a warming glass of red vino .....

When I returned to Castelnaudary I discovered that it was Fete de Britanique. For us this meant that the cinema was showing films in English. So, never having been to the cinema for years I saw two films in two days.  The selection of films were chosen by children from schools in town, who are learning English. They first introduced each film a brief introduction of  the story line.Then then after their viewing they went off to 'judge' the merits of the film, a bit like the Cannes Film Festival. The first one I saw was Dunkirk, which I was particularly interested in seeing as my aunt has a knitting business and having supplied shops like Harrods for years, now measures and makes period pieces for actors in these films. She proudly tells me that one of her knitters made the baby's layette for the film Allied  and she made Brad Pitt's waistcoat which features at the end of that film. The second film I saw was Victoria and Abdul, after which we enjoyed a supper of Fish & Chips cooked by an English couple who come around once a month and supply food pre-ordered. They are very popular with us ex-pats!

On 14th we had a two hour interview to try and open a French bank account with Banque Populaire, and came away with an armful of papers, which must have taken two felled trees to produce! We are finally getting organised, and as soon as the details come through about our French bank account, we will be able to apply for a Carte Vitale. The latter is becoming more and more urgent as the damage to Ni's tendon in his upper right arm, done last September, isnt going to heal, according to his physio and will require an operation to solve the problem. A Carte Vitale will enable us to reclaim 70% of medical charges.

As 'the season' gets underway, confirmed by the increasing number of hire boats, and gite visiting cyclists passing by, the unions are causing disruption by having regular strikes (2 days per week for the next 3 months).  This is aimed at Macron's newly formed government, and their aims to try and rationalise the civil service workers.  So will affect trains, waterways, schools, post offices and all local authority services!  France is in for a summer of unrest.

Visitors are beginning to drop by, our friend Sue, who used to live in the next village to us in the UK and now lives in France at Ales, drove down to see us for a few days. Also friends, Christine and Roger, who live in Bournemouth, stayed one night, on their way from a holiday in spain to their house near Bordeaux. We continue to visit local sights. The last trip was organised by the port capitaine, Odile, and we went to Chateau Belflou. The owner is now a Swiss man, who was very welcoming and informative about the history of the building. He has owned the Chateau for 25 years and, in conjunction with the French Historique Societe has completed its restoration in a very sympathitic manner.

Birthday celebrations for Sharon, where else but at the Cave on the Quai.

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On Friday 30th and Saturday 31st we had a visit from a French boy studying photography at the University of Toulouse. He very politely asked if could come onboard and record shots of Life on the Waterways. His choice of shots seemed odd to us, Ni shaving and me applying make-up, quite ordinary things. Perhaps he wanted to portray life as being 'normal' just in a boat.  We had to shoo him out and Saturday afternoon as he was taking so long to compose his shots, and I had invited some others around for a game of Mexican Trains, which has become a winter favourite, and just right for wet afternoons.

February 2018

Another meal out was proposed and this time we ventured down to Carcassonne and enjoyed the beef of Le Grande Buffe where the beef steak is cooked over an open wood and charcoal fire.

Suddenly on 8th February the temperatures plunged and Castelnaudary had a 'white out'. Fortunately it didnt last on the ground for very long!

On 18th we took advantage of the hire car and went sightseeing. We visited Saint Papoul and were charmed by the old wooden beamed houses, and narrow medieval streets. We didnt get the chance to see inside the Abbey. Next time maybe. 

Nigel also 'collected' some more dates from houses. The oldest here being 1685.

January 2018

Well the new year started unbelievably with an outside temperature of 18C on 4th January! Long may it continue.

Someone had a good Christmas!        

    

Tashi seems to think her bone is well hidden!

Another night out with good friends.

Chez David.

Burns night supper on Gesina.

December 2017

I went to the Uk on 3rd December to be there in time for the funeral of Val Failes on Wednesday 6h. Whilest there I took the opportunity to do some Christmas shopping, visit family and friends, check our furniture in storage etc.

The gold letters need redoing, next time we visit.

I visited our parents graves and placed some flowers on both the headstones.

Hoory, its a hit!

Time for Christmas decorations!

An annual tradition of Ginger Bread House making (plus a new addition of Dr. Who's Tardis!)

It was nice to catch up with a selected few of the BOFs!

And so back to France and a Choucroute meal at the Cave on the Quai.

Driving through the English countryside made me feel quite homesick, which now poses us a dilemma as, finding cruising hardwork we feel we are coming to the end of the time on our beloved Gesina. So much soul searching to be done over the next few months.  To stay in France or return to the UK.  We both find the UK too overcrowded, property is more expensive, but cost of living, particularly food is much cheaper. We love the climate and relaxed way of life in France, property is much cheaper, but we dont speak the language very well. So would we be isolated if no longer part of the boating community?

Now it's all hands on deck to get ready for the communal Christmas day meal for 13 persons, with various individuals preparing/cooking different parts of the meal.  It's a bit like Babette's Feast!!!.  As some consider this an unlucky number we have enlisted the help of another body. More to be revealed.

 OK, here 'It' is our mystery guest number 14:

 Obviously not eaten for a while!

We began the day with the traditional glass of sherry while opening our presents. These 'only small presents' handed to me when I visited the Uk necessitated an extra suitcase to bring them back to France!

Guess who also attended the festivities?

some were worried that they might 'run out' of supplies

others obviously didn't ...

How many drinks was that again?

But some remained cool, calm and collected ...

November 2017

Neither of us feeling too good at the beginning of the month. Ni with his injured shoulder, and fixed to be in a sling for several weeks, and me with the return of heart problems. So visits to doctors all round. Even Tashi had to go for a check-up, and weigh in!

Winter is coming, heralded by Tashi's thick coat, and cold winds blowing from the Pyrenese. Reports of deep enough snow to begin the winter ski-ing season is greeted with glee by the enthusiasts.  We can see the snow topped mountains from here.

A Port Bake Off competition was hosted on Friday 10th by The Cave, Quai du Port, and well attended by a large number of boaters. A tremendous selection of food was presented, and placed into Savoury or Sweet sections.  Mine, I'm embarrassed to say was a total disaster. The Victoria sponge I cooked looked more like two pancakes sandwiched together with strawberry jam. However in support of the event I did enter it. i was amazed to find that I didnt win the Booby prize. So goodness knows what the the 'Booby' was like!

A feast for all!

November jogged along with some warm, sunny days, and some cooler, blustery ones. With Nigel unable to do much about the place, and me being forbidden to by the doctor, we mainly sat it out!

This gave me the opportunity to finish the poncho I've been making for Marina, first cast on back in April. I found it too hot to knit during the main summer months, so it laid idle for some time.

Finished at last!

The VNF in their 'wisdom' decided to lower the water level along this stretch of the canal, to continue work around the Bassin, which has been going on for the past few years. This is part of the continuous footpath along the side of the canal. This has neccessitated removing the old bornes (for electricity and water supplies) and putting in place temporary ones.  Unfortunately some of these aren't able to cope with the demand for power needed by boats over-wintering. So hopefully they will soon be replaced with the permanent ones.

Looks like a Dalek!

When we travel during the summer months we don't bother to put the TV satellite dish up and spend infinite time trying to find the correct alignment to receive BBC programmes.  However, once back in port we looked forward with eager anticipation to getting in touch with things. So Nigel has spent the past week rebuilding the support pole for the dish, then sitting patiently with a 'finder' to track down BBC.  For days we had a picture and sound - but it was all in German!  Eventually with help and advice from several others in port, he 'hit' on the right orientation - et voila - we have a functioning TV.  Funny how it got 'fixed' just in time for Saturday afternoons rugby matches!

Just in time for the Scotland v. Australia match!!!

Sadly a very dear friend of mine died of cancer this month on 10th November. I will miss her terribly, as will her family and many others. Although I visited her in September, and had not thought to attend her funeral, now I have decided that I cannot bear not to be there.

October 2017

Having made a quick trip to the Uk to visit a friend, I returned to Capestang to await more visitors, Jackie and Peter. They checked in to an hotel and cruised with us during the day, from Capestang to Angeliers, Le Somail and Ventenac-Minervois.  LeSomail  was one of the staging posts for passenger boats during the 18th century which cruised between Trebes, Castenaudary and Negra. Costing £6, which must have seemed a lot then. Plus the passengers has to disembark and change boats, each time they reached a double or triple lock - a total of 25 times, and carry their own baggage up or down the steep slope to the next boat.
LeSomail also houses Madame Gourgues' antiquarian bookshop, a treat not to be missed. The stock is vast consisting of paperbacks and very rare editions.

Post boat.

 Angeliers had an interesting walk between a narrow street where placards had been placed on the walls explaining about the Wine revolution.  This concerned French wines, already in oversupply, being threatened by Algerian wines and other artificial mixed concoctions. In 1905 Marcelin Albert, manager of a theatrical group, cafe owner and wine grower convinced 400 wine growers to sign a petition in favour of natural Midi wines.  He then founded the Argeliers Committee, a group of wine growers who were to shake the foundations of the government. The intervention of the army shocked the public and the wine growers' revolt spread over the whole region. So tragic with many innocent people killed. 
Albert Marcelin was finally received by the president and the law authorising chaptalization revoked. But the hero of the day, having dealt with the enemy, was rejected by his former friends and ironically ended his days miserably in Algeria.

We took time off the boat to explore by car, and visited the Cathar town of Minerve, which was a spectacular place perched on the top a rock in a deep ravine.

Stunning village of Minerve.

  Next we visited the bastide of Aine with its narrow streets and tall buildings to throw cooling shadows on the inhabitants. Although Bize Minervois was a recommended place to visit, we never found the point of interest. Need to read a guide book more thoroughly!

Jackie and I also took the opportunity one afternoon to cycle from Ventenac Minervois to Paraza, where  there is the chateau Paul Riquet stayed in  while his canal was being built. Between these two villages is the canal bridge of Repudre, one of the few bridges built by Riquet himself, constructed to avoid damage to the canal caused by flooding of the little river Repudre. It was completed in 1676.   Said to be the first canal bridge ever built in France and reputed to be the second builit in the world!

From Ventenac-Minervois is one of my all time favourite stretches of the Canal du Midi, with the mountains of the Pyrenese on one side and Mountains Noir on the other.

'My mountains'

 I just LOVE them. I think it must come from being a 'northener'!

Tashi is also in heaven here in Homps when we walk down to 100 hectare lake Olonzac.  She can paddle on the waters edge quite happily.  Its deserted at this time of the year, with no water sport activities.

Just beyond the bridge is a brocante which has a wonderful array of objects for sale.  I wish I had a larger boat!! (and bigger pocket!)

Apparently there was a general strike while we were moored in Homps, but as we hadnt intended to move it didnt affect us.

We moved on to LaRedorte and were lucky enough to get a mooring right outside the quayside restaurant, treating ourselves to dinner there on Friday evening with our new neighbours also going to Castelnaudary, Frances and John on their boat Antonia.

Keeping an eye on the weather forecast we moved up to Marseillettes, but only stayed one night, swiftly moving on to Trebes. Then we made a dash for Carcassonne, having rung ahead to be sure of a safe mooring place while the high winds go past.

It  has been a most amazing stop with chaotic happenings on the canal.  First of all a workboat/peniche called Neri arrived, and attempted to pass through the small bridge below the lock into the port. His wheelhouse was too high and he got stuck. Couldnt go forward, couldnt go backwards. The 4 hire boats who had followed him were scattered all over the canal. Eventually Neri got free and moored up. He tried pumping water into his hold to lower the boat,but his pump broke! The hire boats passed up through the lock - all except one, which appeared to be out of control. It kept going aground and spun around several times. That also moored up. That night the VNF lowered the water in the pound and Neri edged slowly into the lock.
This afternoon hotel boat, Savannah, moored in front of us. Hotel boat Alegria came down through the lock, but without Savannah moving forward there was no room for them to pass, so Alegria ran aground. Savannah pulled Alegria off the bank, and moved into the lock. Alegria decided not to moor here and continued down the canal. While these manoeuvres were going on more hire boats arrived wanting to pass through the lock and time was pressing on towards closing time at 6pm. All moved smoothly through (apart from one frantic Irishman who only seemed to know one throttle position - yes you've guessed it FULL POWER) and now we can sleep easy until another day!

 

VNF official keeping a close eye on 'their' bridge!

 

Savannah pulling Alegria off the shallow bank edge.

Boats going in all directions!

 Perhaps the threatened general strike on Thursday will restore peace and calmer waters!

Nigel slipped on the wet grassy bank, and dislocated his shoulder, so we stayed a few more days in Carcassonne for him to rest.

Finally we got on our way, and enjoyed the beautiful autumn days cruising, arriving to the welcoming site of the Grand Bassin, with the spire of the Collegiate St-Michel looking down on us as we approached the old 17th century bridge.
 

Grand Bassin, Castelnaudary.

The Grand Bassin is a man-made lake of 1.75 acres, unique along the 150 miles of the Canal du Midi. It was here that Canal was officially opened to navigation on 19 May 1681. The town's Councilors paid 30,000 livres to have the canal passing through the town and creating the Bassin. During the 18th century it was a busy port hosting wood-drying shops, rope makers, boatmen, dry docks, and carpenters. Drinking troughts were also provided for cattle.
 
We awoke on 31st to our first frost of the season, with boat roof tops sparkling as though they had been sprinkled with tiny diamonds. Luckily the clear night skies also bring clear sunny days.

Pont Vieux, Castelnaudary.

It always seems amazing that we, and larger boats, manage to squeeze through this tiny bridge, set at an angle!